Glow & Lovely’s ‘Apni Roshni Baahar La’ campaign featuring Shehnaaz Gill. The rebranded campaign promises to ‘bring out your inner light’ while maintaining the same fundamental product proposition. #GlowAndLovely #ShehnaazGill #BeautyMarketing

In the rarefied world of beauty marketing, where semiotics meet salesmanship with the precision of a Swiss watch, few campaigns have embodied the contradictions of our age quite like Glow & Lovely’s “Apni Roshni Baahar La” (Bring Out Your Inner Light). This advertisement represents a masterclass in what scholars delicately term “pseudo-feminism”—a phenomenon whereby brands appropriate the language of liberation whilst perpetuating the very systems they purport to challenge1.

The transformation of “Fair & Lovely” to “Glow & Lovely” in June 2020, following the global Black Lives Matter movement, epitomised what marketing theorists call “woke-washing”—the practice of adopting progressive rhetoric for commercial gain without substantive change2. The rebrand, which generated significant controversy and even legal challenges from competitors, was initially hailed as revolutionary3. Yet beneath this veneer of progress lay a more troubling reality: the campaign’s fundamental message remained unchanged, like old wine in a new bottle with a slightly more flattering label4.

Consider the exquisite irony: a global movement demanding racial justice inadvertently prompting a cosmetics giant to rebrand a product that had, for forty-five years, profited from the very colourism that underpins systemic racism.

The Anatomy of Performative Empowerment

The “Apni Roshni Baahar La” campaign represents a sophisticated digital marketing strategy that leverages the influence economy to rehabilitate brand image5. At its core lies The Glow Up Academy, a first-of-its-kind creator-upskilling platform with the ambitious goal of training “one digital creator in each of India’s 19,101 PIN codes”5. This initiative serves multiple marketing functions: database building, content generation, and hyperlocal brand presence through regional influencers.

The campaign employs what digital marketers term “influencer hierarchy deployment,” featuring mega-influencers like Shehnaaz Gill and Jannat Zubair, macro-influencers including Larissa D’Sa and Avneet Kaur, and micro-influencers such as Chum Darang5. This strategy maximises reach whilst maintaining cost efficiency—a crucial consideration given the brand’s need to rebuild credibility following the rebranding controversy.

Yet the campaign’s most glaring contradiction lies in its exclusion of genuinely dark-skinned creators. The brand’s casting choices reveal what marketing scholars term “performative inclusion”—diversity that appears progressive without challenging established beauty hierarchies6.

Rather than featuring authentically dark-skinned women, the campaign employs what critics call “caramelised brown” models—women with medium skin tones who appear more palatable to mainstream audiences whilst maintaining the illusion of inclusivity7.

The Missing Voices: A Curious Omission

The campaign’s failure to feature genuinely dark-skinned influencers becomes particularly striking when one considers the wealth of talent available. Dark-skinned female creators like Susmitha Siddi (@brown_girl_susmitha), who focuses specifically on “empowering brown skin” with 242,000 followers, or Arshia Moorjani (@arshiamoorjani), an entrepreneur dedicated to “brown skin beauty, simplified,” remain conspicuously absent from the campaign8 9 10. Similarly, dark-skinned male influencers such as television actors Ravi Dubey and Fahmaan Khan, who have significant social media followings, are nowhere to be found11.

This exclusion represents what marketing researchers call “adjacency marketing”—positioning near authentic representation without fully embracing it6.

The strategy creates what scholars term “acceptable otherness”—inclusion that feels progressive without threatening established hierarchies12.

The Voice-Over Paradox: Celebrity Authenticity in Question

The advertisement’s voice-over raises fascinating questions about celebrity authenticity in pseudo-feminist campaigns. Whilst not definitively attributed to Priyanka Chopra in available sources, the association would be particularly ironic given her complex history with fairness cream endorsements13. Chopra herself has faced criticism for her past involvement with similar products, having previously endorsed them before becoming a global advocate for diversity14.

In a 2015 interview, Chopra revealed the personal cost of these endorsements: “All my cousins are gora-chitta (fair) I was the one who turned out dusky because my dad is dusky. Just for fun, my Punjabi family would call me ‘kaali, kaali, kaali’. At 13, I wanted to put fairness creams and wanted my complexion changed”14.

She later described the experience as “damaging,” recalling how her character, a dusky flower seller, spends her days ignored by her crush until she undergoes skin lightening15.

This creates what marketing scholars term “authenticity dissonance”—a disconnect between the messenger and the message that undermines campaign effectiveness13. The choice of voice-over artist exemplifies what digital marketers call “borrowed equity”—attempting to transfer celebrity credibility to the product, a strategy that backfires when the celebrity’s own relationship with the brand’s core message is problematic13.

The Semiotics of Linguistic Displacement

The campaign’s Hindi tagline employs sophisticated semiotic strategies designed to mask regressive messaging. “Apni Roshni Baahar La” (Bring Out Your Inner Light) utilises what linguists call “metaphorical displacement”—using “light” and “glow” as euphemisms for the same fairness the brand historically promoted7. This linguistic strategy allows the brand to maintain its core value proposition whilst appearing to distance itself from colorism.

The visual elements reveal what researchers call “old wine in a new bottle” syndrome—superficial changes that maintain underlying problematic narratives7.

The advertisement continues to rely on what semioticians identify as “white supremacist visual codes”—using white light, bright backgrounds, and luminous effects to signify success and beauty7. This creates what marketing psychologists call “aspirational dissonance,” where the visual language contradicts the stated message of inclusivity.

The Orchestrated Symphony: Anatomy of a PR Blitz

Behind the campaign’s carefully crafted narrative lies an equally sophisticated public relations machinery—one that transforms corporate spin into editorial content with surgical precision. The “Apni Roshni Baahar La” rollout represents a masterclass in what media scholars term “manufactured consensus”—the creation of seemingly organic editorial coverage through systematic message control.

The Uniform Messaging Strategy

From Mumbai’s business districts to regional trade publications, the campaign’s PR deployment reveals remarkable uniformity in coverage. Press releases distributed through PR Newswire, ANI News, ThePrint, and afaqs! contain virtually identical copy, complete with recycled soundbites and standardised statistics . This synchronised approach ensures message saturation whilst avoiding the messy unpredictability of genuine journalism.

The campaign’s signature statistic—”one creator in every PIN code”—appears verbatim across dozens of outlets, functioning less as journalistic fact and more as what marketing theorists call “scale signalling”. The hyper-specific target of 19,101 PIN codes serves as numerical spectacle, designed to overwhelm skeptical audiences with the sheer audacity of the brand’s ambition.

The Absence of Critical Voices

Perhaps most revealing is what the PR coverage omits. Not a single mainstream outlet includes independent expert commentary or acknowledges Glow & Lovely’s contested history as Fair & Lovely. Trade publications like Campaign India and Brand Equity limit themselves to reproducing corporate messaging, creating what media scholars term “public relations journalism”—coverage that masquerades as editorial content whilst serving purely promotional purposes .

This systematic exclusion of critical perspective creates what researchers identify as an “echo chamber effect,” where corporate messaging reinforces itself across multiple channels without encountering meaningful challenge. The strategy acknowledges a fundamental truth about contemporary media: control the narrative early and comprehensively, and independent analysis becomes marginalised to academic papers and niche blogs.

The Celebrity Curation Strategy

The campaign’s selection of seven featured creators—Shehnaaz Gill, Jannat Zubair, Nabha Natesh, Larissa D’Sa, Avneet Kaur, Shreya Priyam, and Chum Darang—represents what PR professionals call “safe diversity”. These influencers embody sufficient variation to deflect tokenism accusations whilst remaining safely within mainstream beauty paradigms. None represent the genuinely dark-skinned demographics that would challenge the brand’s fundamental value proposition.

This curatorial choice reflects sophisticated understanding of contemporary diversity politics: the appearance of inclusion without the substance of representation. The strategy creates what scholars term “performative diversity”—enough variation to seem progressive without threatening established hierarchies.

The Economics of Pseudo-Feminist Marketing

The campaign’s digital marketing budget reveals the economics of pseudo-feminist messaging. Industry estimates suggest investment allocation of approximately 40% for influencer partnerships, 25% for content production, 20% for paid social media promotion, and 15% for community management1. The campaign’s success is measured through what marketers call “perception metrics” rather than traditional sales indicators: sentiment analysis, share of voice, engagement rates, and brand lift studies1.

The brand’s failure to address Glow & Lovely’s history as Fair & Lovely creates what marketing psychologists call ‘cognitive dissonance amplification

The strategy acknowledges that the brand’s credibility problem cannot be solved through product reformulation alone—it requires a sophisticated campaign to reshape public perception whilst maintaining the underlying business model that generated the controversy.

The Global Context: Colorism as Cultural Export

The Glow & Lovely campaign operates within a global context where colorism generates substantial revenue. The Indian skin-lightening market, valued at approximately $1 billion with skin whiteners representing nearly 80% of the market, demonstrates the commercial success of perpetuating colorist ideologies1. The industry is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 7.4% through 2034, indicating that cosmetic rebranding has done little to diminish demand for products that promise social mobility through skin transformation1.

Research by Margaret Hunter, a leading authority on colorism, demonstrates that “colorism is a process that privileges light-skinned people of color over their dark-skinned counterparts”1. The practice has deep historical roots in colonialism and slavery, creating what Hunter terms “the persistent problem of colorism”1.

In India, this manifests as a multi-billion dollar industry that has “stigmatised dark complexion” and created “differential values” positioning lighter skin as superior1.

The Platform Algorithm Manipulation

The campaign’s digital strategy reveals sophisticated understanding of platform algorithms. On Instagram, the brand employs hashtag strategies using trending beauty and empowerment hashtags, engagement pods for initial amplification, and story highlights for sustained visibility1. YouTube optimization includes thumbnail strategies with bright, attention-grabbing visuals and title optimization incorporating trending keywords whilst avoiding controversial terms1.

TikTok viral mechanics involve trend participation, branded hashtag challenges, and duet strategies to encourage user-generated content1. This multi-platform approach ensures maximum reach whilst maintaining narrative consistency across different audience segments.

The Authenticity Crisis: Brand Rehabilitation in the Digital Age

The campaign represents what marketing scholars term “brand rehabilitation through influence”—using influencer partnerships to rebuild credibility following reputational damage1. However, this strategy faces significant challenges as digital audiences increasingly perform “authenticity audits”—researching brand history and identifying contradictions between stated values and actual practices1.

The brand’s failure to address Glow & Lovely’s history as Fair & Lovely creates what marketing psychologists call “cognitive dissonance amplification”1. This becomes particularly problematic when the brand’s digital strategy includes sophisticated community management designed to redirect criticism toward positive messaging through rapid response teams, narrative anchoring, and influence dilution across multiple creators1.

The Broader Implications: Pseudo-Feminism as Cultural Phenomenon

The prevalence of pseudo-feminist marketing poses significant challenges to the broader feminist movement. Research reveals that such campaigns “dilute the core principles of genuine feminism” and create “confusion about what constitutes real empowerment versus marketing-driven pseudo-empowerment”16.

Women increasingly struggle to distinguish between authentic feminist discourse and pseudo-feminist content on social media, with many noting that “feminism has become more like a style statement” used by “urban privileged women” for their own advantage16.

The phenomenon represents what political philosopher Serene Khader identifies as a crisis moment for feminism—a time when “the dilution of feminism into respect for individual freedom is justifying policies and actions that don’t actually do anything for the majority of women”1. This creates what researchers term “statement fatigue”—growing disinterest and ambivalence towards companies claiming to support social justice whilst maintaining contradictory practices1.

The Future of Pseudo-Feminist Marketing: Implications and Predictions

The Glow & Lovely campaign represents a blueprint for pseudo-feminist marketing in the digital age, suggesting several emerging trends: increasingly sophisticated micro-targeting, more elaborate performances of brand authenticity, and systematic creation of brand-aligned influencer networks1. However, these strategies face potential backlash from growing consumer sophistication in identifying performative campaigns, emergence of activists specifically targeting pseudo-feminist brands, and increased pressure on social media platforms to address harmful content1.

The campaign’s technical sophistication—from platform-specific content strategies to influencer ecosystem management—demonstrates remarkable digital marketing competence whilst serving pseudo-feminist objectives1. However, this analysis reveals that sophisticated digital marketing techniques can be deployed to maintain regressive messaging whilst appearing progressive, creating what marketing scholars term “comfortable diversity”—inclusion that challenges established norms minimally whilst appearing progressive1.

Conclusion: The Hollow Promise of Digital Sophistication

The Glow & Lovely “Apni Roshni Baahar La” campaign represents a masterclass in digital marketing sophistication applied to fundamentally regressive messaging. The campaign’s success in generating positive engagement demonstrates the power of influence marketing to rehabilitate brand image, whilst its failure to address fundamental product issues reveals the limitations of such approaches.

The campaign serves as a cautionary tale for digital marketers: technical sophistication cannot compensate for fundamental authenticity failures. In an era of increasing consumer awareness and social media accountability, pseudo-feminist marketing strategies face growing scrutiny and potential backlash. The future of beauty marketing lies not in more sophisticated performances of authenticity, but in genuine commitment to the values brands claim to represent.

Until then, campaigns like “Apni Roshni Baahar La” will continue to represent the intersection of digital marketing excellence and moral mediocrity—technically impressive executions of fundamentally flawed strategies. The question remains: can we, as consumers and critics, develop sufficient sophistication to distinguish between authentic empowerment and its cleverly marketed counterfeit? The answer may determine not only the future of advertising but the trajectory of feminism itself.

The most troubling aspect of this entire enterprise is not its cynicism—that, at least, would be honest—but its apparent belief that empowerment can be purchased, influence can be manufactured, and authenticity can be performed. In the end, the campaign’s greatest success may be its demonstration that in the digital age, even revolution can be commodified and sold back to us as lifestyle content.

Based on my research, I can now provide a comprehensive corrective course of action for Glow & Lovely that addresses the fundamental issues raised in the article. The research reveals several key areas where brands can authentically rehabilitate their reputation and move beyond pseudo-feminist marketing toward genuine empowerment.

Corrective Course of Action for Glow & Lovely: A Path to Authentic Brand Transformation

Following the comprehensive critique of Glow & Lovely’s “Apni Roshni Baahar La” campaign, here is a systematic corrective course of action that addresses the fundamental issues of pseudo-feminism, colorism, and performative empowerment:

1. Comprehensive Product Portfolio Transformation

Phase Out Skin-Lightening Products Entirely

Discontinue all skin-lightening formulations within 18 months1 2 3
Replace with science-backed skincare products focused on genuine skin health: hydration, protection, and repair
Develop products specifically for darker skin tones, addressing unique skincare needs rather than attempting to alter pigmentation4 5

Evidence-Based Product Development

Partner with dermatologists and skin science researchers to create products that celebrate and enhance natural skin tones6 7
Focus on “skin barrier protection” and “melanin-safe formulations” rather than lightening or brightening5
Introduce comprehensive shade ranges that genuinely serve darker skin tones, following the Fenty Beauty model of 40+ foundation shades8 5

2. Authentic Stakeholder Engagement and Transparency

Establish an Independent Diversity Council

Create a board comprising colorism activists, beauty industry critics, and representatives from dark-skinned communities9 10
Grant this council veto power over all marketing campaigns and product development decisions
Publish quarterly transparency reports detailing progress on diversity and inclusion metrics11 12

Community-Led Advisory Structure

Partner with organizations like Dark Is Beautiful and anti-colorism advocacy groups13
Establish regional advisory committees in key markets with genuine representation from marginalized communities
Implement “nothing about us without us” principles in all brand decision-making9 10

3. Systematic Supply Chain and Partnership Overhaul

Diverse Supplier Network

Commit to sourcing 30% of materials from businesses owned by people of color within three years14 5
Establish mentorship and financial support programs for dark-skinned entrepreneurs in the beauty industry
Create transparent reporting on supplier diversity metrics15 16

Authentic Influencer Partnerships

Immediately cease partnerships with creators who do not authentically represent the brand’s stated values
Prioritize partnerships with genuinely dark-skinned content creators and anti-colorism advocates17 18
Implement long-term contracts (minimum 2 years) rather than campaign-based relationships to demonstrate sustained commitment

4. Corporate Social Responsibility Integration

The Melanin Empowerment Foundation

Establish a foundation with $50 million initial funding dedicated to combating colorism in education, media, and healthcare15 16
Focus on systemic change rather than individual empowerment: scholarships for dark-skinned students, anti-colorism curriculum development, and mental health support
Ensure foundation operations are led by people from affected communities, not corporate executives15 16

Economic Justice Initiatives

Create a venture capital fund supporting beauty startups founded by dark-skinned entrepreneurs
Implement fair trade practices throughout the supply chain, particularly in regions where colorism intersects with economic exploitation16 19
Establish paid internship and mentorship programs specifically for dark-skinned individuals in marketing, product development, and executive roles

5. Marketing and Communication Transformation

Authentic Representation Standards

Implement mandatory inclusion of genuinely dark-skinned models in all campaigns (minimum 40% representation)17 18
Cease all use of pink-tinted lighting, skin-smoothing filters, and other techniques that obscure natural skin tones
Partner with documentary filmmakers and journalists to create educational content about colorism’s historical and contemporary impacts17 20

Narrative Restructuring

Abandon all empowerment language until authentic actions demonstrate genuine commitment
Focus messaging on skin health, protection, and celebration of natural beauty rather than transformation narratives17 18
Implement “cooling-off periods” between campaign development and launch to allow for community feedback and revision

6. Accountability and Measurement Systems

Independent Monitoring and Evaluation

Engage third-party organizations to conduct annual audits of diversity and inclusion efforts9 12
Publish detailed impact reports with specific metrics: representation in advertising, supplier diversity, community investment outcomes
Establish public scorecards allowing stakeholders to track progress on specific commitments11 12

Financial Accountability

Tie executive compensation to diversity and inclusion metrics, with specific targets for colorism reduction
Implement “clawback” provisions allowing the company to recover bonuses if diversity commitments are not met15 16
Establish a public fund where the company pays financial penalties for each verified instance of colorism in its operations

7. Long-Term Systemic Change Commitment

Industry Leadership Role

Advocate for industry-wide standards prohibiting colorist marketing practices
Support legislation regulating skin-lightening products and colorist advertising21 4
Collaborate with competitors to establish shared accountability standards for beauty industry diversity22 23

Educational Investment

Fund research on colorism’s psychological and social impacts at major universities
Develop educational materials for schools addressing colorism and self-esteem among young people17 13
Create scholarships specifically for dark-skinned students pursuing careers in dermatology, psychology, and media studies

8. Technology and Innovation for Inclusion

AI and Algorithm Auditing

Audit all AI-powered beauty tools and virtual try-on technologies for colorism bias24
Develop technology specifically designed to accurately represent and enhance darker skin tones
Partner with tech companies to create “melanin-conscious” beauty applications that celebrate rather than minimize natural pigmentation6 24

Data-Driven Inclusivity

Implement comprehensive data collection on skin tone representation across all brand touchpoints
Use analytics to identify and eliminate colorist patterns in marketing algorithms and customer targeting6 24
Create transparent dashboards showing diversity metrics across all brand operations

9. Crisis Prevention and Response Framework

Early Warning Systems

Establish community feedback mechanisms allowing immediate response to colorist content before it reaches wider audiences11 25
Create rapid response teams including colorism experts who can address problematic campaigns within 24 hours1 2
Implement “stakeholder approval” processes for all major campaigns before public launch9 10

Authentic Apology and Remediation Protocol

Develop comprehensive apology frameworks that acknowledge historical harm without deflecting responsibility1 2 3
Create remediation processes that provide tangible benefits to affected communities rather than merely corporate reputation management
Establish victim-centered approaches to addressing colorism-related harm caused by past marketing1 2 3

10. Success Metrics and Timeline

Year 1 Objectives:

Complete product portfolio transition away from skin-lightening formulations
Establish Diversity Council and Community Advisory Committees
Launch Melanin Empowerment Foundation with measurable impact goals
Achieve 40% representation of dark-skinned individuals in all marketing materials

Year 2-3 Objectives:

Demonstrate measurable improvement in brand perception among dark-skinned communities through independent surveys
Achieve 30% supplier diversity targets
Document concrete policy changes influenced by the brand’s advocacy efforts
Establish the company as a credible voice in anti-colorism activism

Long-term Success Indicators:

Recognition by colorism advocacy organizations as a genuine ally rather than a performative actor
Measurable reduction in colorist attitudes among the brand’s target demographic
Industry-wide adoption of diversity standards pioneered by the brand
Sustainable business model that generates profit through authentic inclusivity rather than exploiting insecurities

Implementation Challenges and Mitigation Strategies

Financial Investment Requirements:
The proposed changes require substantial financial commitment—estimated at $200-300 million over three years15 16. However, research demonstrates that authentic diversity initiatives generate long-term competitive advantages and customer loyalty that justify the investment26 5.

Market Resistance:
Some consumers may resist the brand’s transformation, particularly those who have internalized colorist beauty standards27 13. The company must be prepared for temporary revenue decline during the transition period whilst building new customer bases among previously marginalized communities.

Organizational Culture Change:
Transforming corporate culture requires comprehensive employee education, leadership restructuring, and potentially replacing personnel who cannot align with authentic diversity values23 28. This process is essential for preventing backsliding into performative practices.

Conclusion: From Pseudo-Feminism to Authentic Empowerment

This corrective course of action represents a fundamental transformation from pseudo-feminist marketing to authentic empowerment. Rather than appropriating feminist language to sell products that perpetuate colorism, the brand would invest in systemic change that addresses the root causes of color-based discrimination.

The success of this approach depends on sustained commitment beyond immediate reputation management. As research demonstrates, authentic corporate social responsibility initiatives create long-term competitive advantages whilst generating meaningful social impact15 16 19. However, the company must be prepared for the challenging transition period where genuine transformation requires abandoning profitable but harmful practices.

The ultimate measure of success will not be marketing metrics or sales figures, but rather the brand’s recognition by affected communities as a genuine ally in the fight against colorism. This transformation from perpetrator to advocate represents the only path toward authentic redemption for brands that have profited from colorist beauty standards.

By implementing these comprehensive changes, Glow & Lovely could evolve from a symbol of pseudo-feminist marketing into a model for how corporations can contribute to genuine social justice. The question remains whether the company possesses the courage and commitment necessary to undertake such fundamental transformation—or whether it will continue to prioritize short-term profits over long-term integrity.

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